Well, it's been about 3 1/2 months since I last submitted a game here. (Mine Race 3-D). It is still listed as number 2 in the Queue system, but I don't see the file in my list. If anybody want's to snag it, you can download it at...
Now I already did 3-D Kaboom ages ago, which used pre-rendered sprites for the bombs (created with 3-Space... a program I have used for creating graphics in many of my games) and used a program called 3-D Combine to make them in 3-D anaglyph format.
I wanted to try an make a more "true" 3-D game with Game Maker. Not Pre-Rendered graphics, but something that would calculate the difference in a real 3-D world environment.
That was my experiment called Mine Race 3-D. It's nothing fancy...it was more based on testing a method of displaying real 3-D graphics in Game Maker (using the old Red/Cyan 3-D movie glasses) and kinda a speed test before the effect would break down.
These are two views from the game. I appologize for the quality since they are shrunk down. It looks much better if full screen.
Why two images? Well as you can see one is Cyan and the other is Red. The way I displayed real 3-D in Game Maker was to display the view for the right eye (Cyan) and then in the next frame have it draw the left eye (Red). It flip-flops rapidly between these two views.
Without the 3-D glasses it would look like a flickering mess. With the 3-D glasses on the right eye only sees the right view, the left eye only sees the left view. (In principle anyways....)
So how do you achive a real 3-D view in GM? As you can see my game looks pretty much "wire frame" style...kinda vector graphic-ish for the most part. This is not by accident!
Why not go with full solid graphics? The flicker from the screen starts to be overwhelming the more solid images apear....even with the glasses on. The 3-D effect breaks down. With just a wire frame look the flicker effect is greatly reduced with the glasses on.
There is a way to kina display 3-D graphics nicely without a wireframe look. It has to do with displaying the main view, then the left and the right views "added" to them without wiping out the original image. This would only be sutible for stuff where you are maybe taking "steps" in a game. Like how you move in games like Myst or Riven... You got one nice looking picture...move ahead, and it jumps to another view with no transition. As long as the previous images are not wiped out. It would only clear the screen to draw a new view if you moved. Very slow in real time!
So how does this 3-D work? Many already get the concept of how 3-D with the glasses work but here is a general example...
It has to do with what is visible and what is blocked out when you wear the 3-D glasses, and where it tricks your eyes to focus on.
The red lense can see red but not cyan. The cyan lense can see cyan but not red. This "allowing one color to be seen and one is blocked out" is what makes your eyes focus on what is "believed" to be the depth of an object.
In the simple diagram, red lense only sees red, cyan lense only sees cyan. Imagine the black line being the front of your monitor displaying the graphics. The position of the red and cyan objects determines the precieved depth of an object (the black circle).
So with Game Maker....if you know how to make a game in "3-D" already, it's just a matter of flip-floping between two different views. Instead of just one view where "X" is where you are focusing your camera on and Y is where you are looking from...you just change Y a couple pixels either left or right from that "from" view.
I hope that made sense. Your target X,Y,Z locations where the camera is focused on can stay the same, but where you are looking from you need to change one axis a few pixels for the effect. (Depending what angle you are looking from).
So when it comes time to draw the view, just have the program flip-flop between two views. Like view=-view.
If the view is negative draw in red one view. If it is positive, draw in cyan the other view.
Other factors to consider...room speed (seems to effect how fast your screen is refreshed). Try to find a number where the flicker effect becomes a minimum with the glasses on. Colors to use...I tried absolute red and cyan (255) but could see both with the 3-D glasses on kinda. I toned them down a bit so red should only see red and cyan only sees cyan...or as close as I could get.
Try not to have images "jump" off the screen too much. If you have images coming "off the screen" you need to make sure both red and cyan views fit fully on the screen. Going to extremes your eyes will have problems fousing on the images as well. (Having the red and cyan images a mile apart expecting it to be 2 inches from your face)
Try to keep the depth centered where the front of the screen should be. That is, try to have the images come out no farther than how far behind the screen they should apear. As red and cyan spread out, it gets harder to focus your eyes.
Oh yeah, side note...
Way back I made a game called Mount Neverest. Some people thought it was "too hard". Here is a video showing that it is more than posible to get thru all the holes easily.
Audio gets off track after a while, but you see it can be done.
Wow, 64D is still alive? Been quite a ahile. Last game I submited was Mine Race 3-D. It was a very simple game I threw together in a few days to test a technique I figured out for displaying real 3-D graphics in GameMaker (using the Red/Cyan 3-D movie glasses for a real illusion of depth.) It has a wire frame look to keep the speed up and help illiminate the flicker with the glasses on. That was late December. I may put a link up to it if it dissapeared from sitting around too long.
In other news...Hmmm... Well, I turned 40. Like they say, better to be over the hill than under it. Vertigo came to a halt again. Wen't crazy with that "chicken or the egg" scenario trying to fix certain problems. Fix one thing, break two other things that were working.
I got laid off from my job for the next week. (More is comming I am sure). Could be worse, but I havebeen planning ahead since before October of last year getting ready for hard times.
I bought various items planning ahead for when money would be tight. One of those things I have been stocking up on is silver.
Hope I got that right for posting pictures. It's been a while. Just some of my collection. Mainly just different types of silver rounds/bars I have.
Larger views with both sides here if currious...
O.K. Chimp...why silver? Because the Fed has been printing money like crazy which is just going to devalue the dollar in the long run. Look what happened to Germany years ago.
Why not invest in gold? Well, gold is another great store of wealth, but I would only get the smallest denominations for it. Why? Say you got a 1 ounce gold coin. If it's value is near $1,000 or in that range now, what is it going to be when the dollar collapses? Are you going to buy a car with it? It's just got too much value unless you are just storing wealth you don't plan on cashing in.
Silver is the poor man'ss gold. It holds value but costs alot less. If I cash in a very valuable gold coin, I am cashing it in all at once. With silver, I can cash in whatever amount I need and still keep the rest for later.
By the way, the object of silver is not to "get rich" so much. It's more to "maintain the wealth that you have".
It's isn't so much that gold and silver are going up in value, but rather that the value of the dollar is going down. Now I am sure there is manipulation in the markets, but overall gold and silver have held value for thousands of years. Compare that with paper money.
Storing Gold and Silver is more of a long term investment.
Now I could throw a list of links to videos a mile long up here, because there are many aspects to owning precious metals. Here are some videos you might find of interest...
I'm not a real fan of Glenn Beck, I am more of an Alex Jones guy myself. But the chart should open your eyes a bit...
You are going broke...did you even know it?...
Further, like many others I would not recomend holding your gold and silver any other way than physically. If you can't hold it in your hand you don't own Jack. No paper certificates or letting someone else hold it for you in a vault somewhere.
Why not keep it in a bank?...
Some final stuff here... I started out collecting Silver Eagles. I kinda stear clear of that right now. They cost more over spot price than just straight bullion. Silver Eagles do have thier advantages, but I prefer just stright bullion rounds and bars. Silver is pretty much silver at the end of the day. It's kinda like buying shoes... both pair may work fine, but one pair may say Nike on then. Same stuff, just paying for a well known brand name.
All the silver I have is the same stuff. They are all .999 pure (except for a couple of Silver Maple Leafs I own which are .9999 pure.) I like the generic bullion, Just pure silver. I stay away from stuff like Numismatic coins that are based on how many coins are in circulation, what condition is it in, how old is it, etc... Same with "proof sets"...a waste of time for me. Silver is silver.
Would they try to confiscate like they did before? It's a posibility. But I feel the dollar is going to be toast in the long run no matter what. At least there is a chance of saving wealth with precious metals.
Well, that's it for now. Try not to buy PM's too high over spot price if you decide to go that route. (Young people saving money? What was I thinking?) LOL! j/k
Well, I started tinkering around with my project again. What sucks is if you walk away too long you forget alot of what you did in your program....and with Vertigo..Uhg!
I "may" have to try starting fresh with the way you move around. It works so close, but little bugs like being able to jump in mid air if you don't let go of the space bar and such...it's driving me nuts trying to nail it down.
It may sound like a simple fix but remember...I am checking movement on 6 faces with 4 posible directions each. Then checking at every level...(6 levels of blocks posible and you could be on the very top or bottom...so that makes 8) The events start to get a mile long, and although I did put in comments heavily for the first time, it is still hard to sort out.
For those of you with high-speed internet you can see what you can expect for gameplay here with a video I put up on You Tube...
The resolution was recorded at 50% because capturing the video slows it down...so this is about the speed it runs at on my computer...2.6Ghz. And yes the animation is smoother than the video, but you will need a fast computer to play this game at any reasonable speed once it is done.
I WISH there was some Z collision detection in GM 6.1.... it would simplify things greatl.! Having to check everything manualy...what a fricking pain!
Well, once this game is done, it is probably the last I am going to go nuts with all the camera angles and heights with.
If I could just get this jumping thing down I could start cranking out levels with the level editor. Another bug is that when you are jumping on the Z axis with the joystick it only moves one space ahead instead of two.